The Polar Odyssey

What’s it like to study life in the coldest places on Earth?
Femi Anna Thomas knows firsthand

In 2015, when Femi Anna Thomas enrolled as a PhD student at the National Centre for Polar and Ocean Research (NCPOR) in Goa, her supervisor, the late Dr KP Krishnan, casually mentioned, “You will have to go to the Arctic to collect environmental samples for your PhD work.”

Though seemingly a remote possibility at the time, these words sparked a passion that would lead her to both the North and South Poles within a decade, earning her the self-described title of a ‘bipolar woman.’  Speaking over a satellite phone from Antarctica, Femi reflected on how this journey shaped her life and career.

From Small-Town to the Arctic Circle

A Thiruvalla native, Femi followed her love for Biology from school through to advanced studies. She completed a bachelor’s degree in Zoology, a master’s in Marine Biology, and eventually a PhD in Arctic Microbiology. Currently, she serves as an assistant professor in the department of Zoology at Union Christian College, Aluva, Kerala.

Her polar journey began in August 2017 when she was selected for the 45-day Indian Arctic Expedition to Ny-Ålesund, Svalbard—a research settlement located at 79°N, 12°E, making it the northernmost civilian community in the world. For someone who had never flown before, the journey itself was momentous: Four commercial flights followed by a private aircraft exclusively for scientists.

Located among towering glaciers and pristine fjords, the research settlement is a hub for international research, and hosts institutions from 11 countries. Her home for the next six weeks was India’s Himadri Research Station, ‘a cozy yellow two-storey building.’
On the second day of her expedition, Femi was given a gun. In the Arctic wilderness, the possibility of encountering a polar bear was very real.

“The mere thought of facing one was both terrifying and exhilarating. During rifle training, I held a rifle for the first time, braced for the recoil, and fired 12 rounds. The ache in my arms was nothing compared to the thrill of mastering a skill that could one day save my life,” she recalled.

Fieldwork proved demanding. During glacier sampling, she slipped into a freezing meltwater channel, her waterproof boots failing to protect her. “My teammates came to my aid, offering dry socks and
encouraging words which kept me walking for the entire trek,” she said.

One of her fondest memories was sending postcards to family and friends from the world’s northernmost post office in Ny-Ålesund.

Return to the Arctic in 2018

In 2018, Femi was selected again for the 2018 Indian Arctic Expedition. During this trip, she experienced her first snowfall when her roommate woke her in the middle of the night. “I played in the snow like a child until I realized I was shivering uncontrollably,” she recalled. The next morning, she witnessed the dramatic transformation of the landscape from a brown terrain to a “vast, pristine white carpet.”

Wildlife encounters enriched her Arctic experience. The team spotted an Arctic fox with “thick white fur and piercing eyes” near their station, followed by a sighting of an Arctic reindeer the next day. Femi described the reindeer as “lazily grazing right beside our station, completely unfazed by our presence”—a moment both “hilarious and awe-inspiring.”

From North to South: The Antarctic Expedition

In April 2024, Femi joined the 44th Indian Scientific Expedition to Antarctica (ISEA) to study microplastic pollution and plastisphere dynamics in the Antarctic ecosystem. The selection process was rigorous, requiring a comprehensive medical examination at AIIMS Delhi and physical endurance training with the Indo-Tibetan Border Police Force in Uttarakhand.

“The physical test was an extreme challenge, not just of fitness but of teamwork, resilience, and adaptability,” Femi explained. “We learned how buddy pairs help make difficult treks and rock climbing manageable.”

The expedition began in Dec 2024, with the team heading to India’s two Antarctic research stations: Bharati in East Antarctica and Maitri in West Antarctica. The 24-member team, including three women—Dr Shyni Kuriakose (medical doctor), Priyanka Patel (PhD student), and Femi—flew to Cape Town before boarding the research vessel MV Vasiliy Golovnin.

Dr Kuriakose described the journey as “blessed beyond words,” with sightings of albatrosses, humpback whales, orcas, and Antarctic birds including snow petrels, skuas, penguins, and prions. “The ocean glowed with life at every leg of the journey and each sunset was a gift in itself, an unsung painting,” she recalled.

At the time of writing, the team was en route to Maitri, India’s second Antarctic station. “To guide us now, we have the beautiful auroras at night (southern lights – Aurora australis) dancing in the sky with all its green and pink hues and heavy snowstorms throughout the day,” Dr Kuriakose said. “This truly is a wonderland where every other day awaits you with new surprises.”

As they celebrated International Women’s Day, both Femi and Dr Kuriakose sent their wishes, while continuing their month-long scientific expedition at the southernmost point of the Earth.